Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Busted - Spot & Stalk Elk Hunting in the Grass

Busted.  The cow was staring straight at us.  This was third time we had been spotted by this alert little cow.  She was feeding on the leading edge of about 200 head of Rocky Mount Elk in Northeastern Oregon.  It was the second day of the Rocky Mountain Elk Second Rifle Season and we were in a spot in which we didn't expect to see elk the week before.


We spent the entire previous day hunting the timbered draws and dry hillsides in which we used to finding the elk.  This year was a little different.  Drought has hit this portion of the east side of Oregon quite hard.  This is one of the factors contributing to moving the elk out of the timber and down to agricultural land.

We spotted our first herd in a CRP, Conservation Reserve Program, field.  This wasn't the first time I had seen elk down in the lowlands.  Every year, it seems, the elk find their way down out of the mountains and on to grazing land, dryland wheat farms, and other irrigated farms.  It was always a treat for me to go out and watch the large heard as they fed into the wind on winter mornings when I was younger.  The cows and calves would softly be calling to each other at the base of the Blue Mountains in stubble and on seeded wheat.

That's exactly what we were seeing on this day.  The herd was slowly moving from east to west, into the wind, along the top of a hill with three draws leading up to it.  The rolling hills were exactly the type of terrain the elk herd seemed to prefer.  We would eventually spot four herds that day, all at, or near the very top of the rolling terrain.

The elk fed like this to maximize their chances of spotting approaching predators, like us.

Our initial approach to the herd was down a dry creek bed.  I have to imagine this is a tactic used by our ancestors for thousands of years.  Thankfully, I wasn’t carrying an atlatl; I had a Remington 700 in .300 Winchester Magnum.  Topped by a Leupold Mark IV 6.5-20 scope that was the nicest piece of hunting equipment I own. This was our first hunting trip together.  Being the largest caliber rifle I currently have, I like to call it The Big Dog.

Moving down the creek bed, we knew we had to be close to the elk and would spot them just around every turn.  The only problem was we kept moving further down the creek, rounding turns, and there were no elk.  My buddy and I looked quizzically at each other, not really knowing how we could have missed the elk we had spotted almost half a mile back. We decided to start heading, diagonally, up the hill.  

We had walked about 400 yards when we saw the curious cow's ears poking up above the sage brush.  We slowly sprawled out on the ground.  Both of us had our rifles, shooting sticks, and packs.  It was about forty degrees with the wind blowing around twenty miles per hour from east to west.

As we lay splayed out on the cheat grass, basalt, and sage brush covered hillside, a line of elk, moving up the terrain, were feeding parallel to the direction we were traveling.  While we misjudged where to move up the hill based on where we thought we had spotted the herd, we were actually on the right side of lucky meeting them where we did.  The only elk not moving was the nosy cow who spotted us.

We were unsure what to do.  We had almost no cover.  No rim rocks, no sage brush, no anything.  Thankfully, the curious cow put her head down and started to feed again.  So we made a few hand signals and whispered at each other to come to a decision to start crawling, moving parallel to the direction the herd was travelling.

As we were crawling, we continued to see elk through the sage brush and grass.  Brown manes, tan hides, and white butts seemed to be pouring up the hillside.  We stopped to range the closest cow elk.  She was 178 yards away, three animals ahead of the nosey cow who now had her head up staring at us a second time.  We decided to wait where we were for a few minutes to watch more of the elk herd feed up the hill through a little swale parallel to us, 

Crawling through the brush is never an easy thing.  Feeling a little nervous about having hurriedly crawling over the last 100 yards or so, I decided to check The Big Dog's scope and barrel to make sure I had been as careful with it as I was trying to be.  Thankfully, both scope and barrel were dirt free.

The curious cow finally put her head down and began to feed once again.  We resumed our crawl, changing direction slightly to get a better angle on the slowly feeding herd.  We set the goal of reaching a patch of taller sage brush about on a small knoll about 50 yards ahead of us.  The good news was the sage between us and our goal was becoming thicker and taller.  The bad news was our curious cow was poking her head out of the sage once again.

They say the third time is a charm.  We were flat on our bellies after our second crawling session over lichen covered basalt and between bunch grass and sage brush.  The cow resumed feeding, once again, and we were able to finish our crawl.  We sat behind the tall brush and watched the herd of, now five or six elk feed.

As an aside, two days before this hunt I received my Kuiu Guide Gloves (which are, unfortunately sold-out).  We were crawling over the basalt and lava rock with cheat grass and all manner of prickly things.  These gloves were fantastic.  I've become a believer in this company's products.  This is the type of terrain on which we were crawling (although this photo was taken three weeks earlier):

Eastern Oregon's "second season” or General Rifle Elk season is open on a few wildlife management units.  One may also apply for several controlled hunts on other wildlife management units, as well.  The general season is "spike only".  I won't get into the definition of a spike; the Oregon Big Game Synopsis does an excellent job of that.

We watched the herd continue to feed and the cow that had a knack for almost busting us moved ahead with the group.  As we watched the herd, grow, we started to notice more elk bedded down in the sage brush.  Then my buddy put his index fingers up over his ears to indicate he could see a spike.  I looked through my binoculars in the direction he was looking and saw him, too.

He was bedded down in the tall grass behind some sage brush.  Like the curious cow, he was looking right at us with his ears pointed straight in our direction.  We still had the win on our side, but soon the lead animals in the herd were going to continue moving and they would wind us.  We needed this spike to stand up before that happened, and he was awfully content, lounging behind the sage in the grass.

I was continuing to watch the lead animals feed into the wind, nearing the crest of the hill.  The third member of our group was near the top of the hill.  I watched him, binoculars up, doing the same mental gymnastics I was currently engaged in trying to determine when the lead animals would get a little swirl of scent which had our names all over it.

The spike didn't care about our problems.  He was joined by several other animals who bedded down ahead of him.  More elk were coming up the hill and bedding down as well.  This was getting complicated.  If he didn't move soon, he would be surrounded by cows offering us no shot.  This was complicated, of course, by the fact if he didn't move soon we were going to be winded.

Mother Nature was not worried about our problems.  What was an already miserable day was starting to get worse.  The wind was picking up, and rain drops were starting to fall.  This was elk hunting, pure and simple.

Just as I was beginning to cuss the rain, I changed my tune.  Those few drops and the uptick on the wind gage signaled change, for the better.  The lead animals quit moving in formation toward the spot where the wind would be carrying our scent.  I thanked my lucky stars for that.  The cows near the bedded spike moved up the hill, and he was soon clear of any obstruction.

Our 300 yard crawl was starting to wear off my old knees.  Put the binoculars down and got my shooting sticks into position, slightly in front of my hips.  I placed The Big Dog in the "V" of the sticks and moved the crosshairs toward the resting spike.  As the scope came to rest on his nose, I turned up the dial to 12X.  The vividness of the spike's brown mane was quite a sight.  I continued to watch the spike lie in the grass hoping he would get up soon and present a good shot for me.

I lifted my head from my rifle to look downhill at my fellow hunter and belly crawler.  At the same time he looked at me and shrugged his shoulders as if to say, "Looks like we're waiting here for a while."  

As I turned my gaze back toward the spike I noticed he was beginning to move.  I looked to the rest of the herd to see if they had caught our scent, but they seemed very calm.  As the spike lumbered to get his legs under him, I slowed my breathing, anticipating he would present a shot.  I slid the bolt back on The Big dog and loaded a cartridge in the chamber.  The elk was now standing looking directly toward me.  I slid the safety off as quietly and carefully as I could, thinking somehow the spike was going to run off at my slightest movement or flinch.  Instead, the spike turned up the hill, presenting a broadside shot.  

I exhaled and slowly squeezed the trigger.  The Big Dog barked as the 180 grain bullet flew free of the case and careened toward the elk.  I wish I could say I saw the bullet traveling or saw it hit, but the truth is I made a huge mistake.  I pulled my head off the scope, immediately.  I did not hear the confirming THWAP come back at me from the sound of the bullet meeting the rib cage of the elk.  I was sure I had missed because I watched the elk trundle off ten yards behind disappear the taller sage brush and, what I thought, run up the hill and down into a small swale on the hillside.  What I didn't know is that both my biddies heard the impact of the bullet and were completely dumbfounded as to how I could have missed him fall after traveling about fifteen yards.    


What we thought was a herd of about 200 was actually a herd of about 600.  My other two friends and I were unable to catch up with the herd after field dressing the spike I had taken.  We decided Mother Nature was about to really let go with some cruddy weather and we went back to my friend's place to skin the animal before we delivered it to the butcher to be processed.

While skinning the elk, we were surprised to find the Remington Core-Lokt had given up all its energy potential inside the spike's vitals.  We found it on the opposite side between the hide and the rib cage.
"The Deadliest Mushroom in the Woods" lived up to it's name.

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Bend Burger Company

Mother of God.  I may have found the perfect burger.  It's on one of Oregon's most Beaten Paths in Bend, home of some of the coolest things in our state.  It's at a place called Bend Burger Company downtown (although they have another location on Franklin). 


Previous to my visit to this particular establishment, the bar for the best burger in Oregon had been set by Calamity Jane's in Sandy, Oregon in July of 1999, the last time I visited there. 

Bend Burger Company doesn't try to flash up the place. It's main game is the best burger you've had, and boy oh boy, they do it right. I had the Sunrise Burger with game, egg, and the beef was cut with just a touch of sausage. This place is fantastic. Do yourself a favor. If you're in Oregon's Beaten Path in Bend, make a stop here. It's worth it. 

Joseph

Joseph, Oregon is, bar none, one of my favorite places in the entire world.  The Beaten Path to Wallowa Lake goes right through the heart of this little town.  On those long rides in the front seat of my Dad's pick-up I remember how thankful I always was to arrive in Joseph.  I could wrap my twelve year-old head around the fact that when you got to the edge of town, camping at the lake was just six miles away.

That's not to say I didn't enjoy being in Joseph.  It was filled with great little shops and offered me a chance to explore a town without my parents at a very young age.  It was freedom to me.  I wondered through the typical resort town gift shops.  I wandered into the sporting goods store stocked with high end backpacking gear in awe of people's ability to carry those immense packs.  I also found my way into the bookstores and other interesting shops.  It must have been in one of those shops that I learned about the history of Joseph.  The strange thing is, I can't remember a time when I didn't know the story of how the town got it's name.

Originally named Silver Lake, in 1880 the town officially changed its name to Joseph after Nez Perce Chief Joseph, who organized and led one of the greatest military retreats in history.  I had always respected the life and story of the leader of the Wallowa Band of the Nez Perce.

His Indian Name  Hinmuuttu-yalatlat was so appropriate.  It translates to Thunder Rolling Down the Mountain.  If you've ever been in the Wallowa Valley during a thunderstorm, then you can appreciate the symbolism.  The cacophony of sounds during a July thunderstorm reminds you of just how small you really are in this great big world.  The echo is deafening.  The rains can bring a deluge of water in seconds.  I consider myself lucky that I have experienced it more than a few times. 

Joseph is one of those places you visit and then try to figure out how you could live there. It's at the head of Wallowa Lake and the gateway to Hell's Canyon. It's the gem of Northeastern Oregon.

My favorite time of year in Joseph is during the annual Chief Joseph Days Rodeo.  It's one of the best run rodeos you'll ever attend.  Top PRCA and WPRA competitors come from miles around to take part in the annual event.  It's one of the first rodeos on the Northwest swing for cowboys and cowgirls, and the view from the grandstands can't be beat by any other rodeo, anywhere, period.



One of my favorite places to eat in Joseph is Embers Brewhouse on the main drag through town.  I have probably dines, for lunch and dinner, at Embers around 20 times and I have yet to find a dish I wouldn't order again.  The hardest part about going there is trying something new and not going back to the thing I had the last time.  The beer list is always...evolving.  There are a few old standbys, but you can always count on something magnificent on tap that you probably haven't heard of unless you listen to a Beervana Podcast weekly.

Joseph is also where my Dad and I stumbled onto our BBQ Team Name - quite by accident.  Just as you enter Joseph coming from Enterprise is a shop called Simply Sandy's.  It's one of those places I joke about.  I'm not a big trinket guy, but this place is stocked with all kinds of stuff in a shed, a house, and in the front yard.  It was in the front yard that we came across the Big Cock, a four foot tall roster made of repurposed metal and tin.  In that instant Big Cock BBQ was born - more on that later.

The trip to Wallowa Lake is never complete without a stop in Joseph.  Make sure you take some time there when you're heading out on Oregon's Beaten Path.

Monday, November 9, 2015

Enterprise

The road to Wallowa Lake takes you through God's Country and the second to last town before the lake is certainly just inside the Pearly Gates. 

Enterprise is the town I always looked forward to seeing on those family trips in the old Ford pick-up on the way to our annual family camping trip. Back then we always begged to stop at a place called Pete's Pond. The attraction was a large pond where you could buy fish food and feed (what I remember to be) some incredibly huge trout. I'm sure the attraction for my parents was stretching their legs and listening to the relative silence of the table inside the restaurant. My sisters and I spent many quarters feeding the fish, easily more than we wasted in Ms. Pac-Man at the truck stop near our rural home. 

Now the place I always beg to stop in Enterprise is one of the first brew pubs in Eastern Oregon, Terminal Gravity just on the south edge of town. My first experience with Terminal Gravity was an IPA in a restaurant in my hometown.  Although it may be blasphemous to say for an Oregonian, I never really jumped on the IPA bandwagon.  As a matter of fact I didn't like them until I drank Terminal Gravity IPA that I like one (I still don't understand why every brewery is required to push India Pale Ale, but that's neither here nor there).  The beer is is like when the toilet flushes when you're taking a shower in a house with old plumbing - surprising - surprisingly good.  I haven't had a bad one yet.  

Terminal Gravity not only has excellent beer.  The food is quite good as well.  I haven't had the whole menu, but darn close.  For an outfit that's 200+ miles from the coast, the Seared Ahi Tuna appetizer is dang good.  I usually skip the salad as I've yet to find a good green leafy pairing with beer.  It's probably out there, but I haven't had it.  

I love the burgers.  The interesting thing about the beef used at Terminal Gravity is that it began its life hoping to be a roping steer.  Corriente beef is generally known for being excellent rodeo fare, not table fare.  However, the chefs at Terminal Gravity have taken a skin and bones cow and turned it into something delicious.  

The kids menu and the outdoor seating at picnic tables in the grass along the babbling brook both add to the experience (especially when traveling with littles). 




This next recommendation may seem a little strange, but if you're like me, you can be a picky eater.  On your way through Enterprise, check your provisions. If you're low on the essentials, like stinky cheese or processed meats, you're going to want to pull into Safeway because this is the last chance you'll have to find a large grocery store on your way to Wallowa Lake on Oregon's Beaten Path. 

Friday, November 6, 2015

Lostine, Oregon

**Warning** This post contains no original pictures because I failed to take any that were worth a hoot.  Click on the links for some amazing photography.  Here's one from Travel Oregon's website:



The trip to Wallowa Lake is punctuated in several spots with surprises.  When I was a kid in the cab of the pick-up with four others on the way to Wallowa Lake, Lostine always make me sigh.  It was one of the many spots in the road which seemed to do nothing but slow you down.  "Dad, is this Enterprise?" would be one of the questions my sisters or I would ask on the outskirts of Lostine.  Much to our dismay, we still always had many little towns and many more miles to go.  

I have gained a new appreciation for Lostine in my many travels to Joseph and Wallowa Lake, primarily because it has surprised me on several occasions.  The first surprise was the refurbishment and complete re-tooling of the Lostine Tavern.  

In the rural west of the United States, to be considered a town, three things are needed - a church, a school, and a tavern.  Think about it, more business, political maneuvering, and relationships have gotten their respective starts at taverns than any other type of establishment.  Taverns are critical to the vitality and health of a community.  The original Lostine Tavern fit this bill.  However, the new Lostine Tavern is amazing.  Here's some info from their website: "The Lostine Tavern is an historic building in the town of Lostine, Oregon, population 203. It was built in 1900 from locally quarried Bowlby stone by E.L McKenzie as a pharmacy and doctor's office. It also housed a Masonic Lodge and became the town tavern in the 1940s. It has long been a social center for this ranching and farming community. In restoring the building, the current owners strived to continue the legacy of this landmark gathering place. It was listed in November 2014 on the National Register of Historic Places."  Food and ambience make this place a must stop on your way to Wallowa Lake.

After lunch or dinner, mosey on over to M. Crow & Co. to see what a store looked like 100 years ago.  Their product mix is a little like Sweet & Salty Chex Mix - unique.  there's a new experience every move you make in the store  

You should also grab a coffee at the Blue Banana, which you absolutely can't miss when you drive by.  

I'm not exaggerating when I say I used to hear the word Lostine and become deflated.  Now, I'm happy to say I look forward to my trips on Oregon's Beaten Path to Lostine.


Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Wallowa Lake Journey

The Beaten Path to Wallowa Lake

When I was a kid our family vacation, almost every year, was to Wallowa Lake in Northeastern Oregon.  Times spent at Wallowa Lake growing up comprise some of my favorite memories of childhood in Eastern Oregon. 

Some of my least favorite memories are comprised of the long trip up to Wallowa Lake.  When you're ten years old any car ride over 45 minutes is a long trip.  This one clocked in around three hours back in the day.

We were packed like sardines in the cab of my Dad’s Ford pick-up, towing the travel trailer up and down mountains and through tiny towns along the way.  Thankfully, my two sisters were very small, and my Mom was tiny too.  Dad and I were not.  They say you don’t breed a draft horse and get a Shetland pony.  That’s the case with my father and me. 



Thankfully, times, and the road to Wallowa Lake, have changed immensely since the early 1980s.  So, join me as I take a trip down memory lane over the next few days and tell you about how Oregon’s Beaten Path to Wallowa Lake has changed over the years to become the gateway to one of Oregon’s Seven Wonders.